Kvichak, A River to Remember
By: Victor A. Silberman, M.D.
A hundred miles west of Anchorage Alaska is Lake Iliamna, a 40x80 mile
body of water fed by the surrounding snow-covered mountain streams. At
the western end of the Lake is the Kvichak River which empties into
Bristol Bay 50 miles away. At its mouth, the River is 200 yards wide,
deep and rapid. A mile downstream, it becomes a myriad of channels and
islands, called "The Flats" which stretches for a dozen miles providing
numerous sites for salmon spawning beds and ideal fishing areas.
In early July, the Sockeye or Red salmon enter the River in the millions
to spawn, and by mid August they have become bright red as their life
cycle draws to an end. At this time, the Coho or Silver salmon are there
in large numbers, and still chrome-colored fresh from the ocean. In
even-numbered years, Pink salmon or Humpies are also to be found as well
as Chum or Dog salmon. The latter name evolved from the fact the natives
have fed this specie to their dogs. The rainbow trout population
continues to flourish with the "Zero Limit" rule, and has produced some
specimens up to 36 inches. Dolly Varden or Arctic Char and Greyling are
also to be found in abundance.
When the weather is good, the water is crystal clear, and the fishing is
at its best. Easterly winds blow glacial silt from the Lake into the
River, and the water becomes an opalescent turbid fluid with poor
visibility and hence poor fishing.
On the north bank at the mouth of the River, is the Ole Creek Lodge which
is owned and operated by Marge and Don Haugen. It is a first class
operation at a modest cost in comparison with some of the well-known
fly-out lodges in the area. The proof-of-the pudding is that these lodges
fly their DeHaviland beaver and client to the Kvichak for it's great salmon and trout fishing.
During the week of August 10-17 when I was there, the weather was ideal
with sunny skies and mild breezes. When the temperature reached 70
degrees and the wind subsides the NoSeeUms emerged and became annoying. A
cream called "Repell," which is a combination of sun block and DEET,
proved to be very effective. A word of advice: Warm, waterproof parkas and
windbreakers are a must for the inevitable wet, cold weather.
When it comes to fishing equipment for salmon, a 9 eight 9 foot graphic fly rod, and a fast sink tip fly line are my choices. Popular flies include the egg-sucking leech, black wooleybugger, and bright tinsel
streamers. For the non-purist, a 6� foot graphite medium light action
spinning rod with 12 pound test monofilament line is ideal. As for Lures,
my favorites are Pixies and Flash Glo spinners.
One of the most valuable assets for a productive day catching is an
experienced guide; I was fortunate to have Peter Bekun for my week on the
Kvichak, and he made a big difference in comparison with previous years.
Since the Alaskan DFG imposed a limit of 2 per day, it is imperative that
the guide be adept at netting your fish, removing the hook, and returning the unharmed fish to the water to continue its destined spawning journey.
For a challenge, just visualize a thrashing 10 pound salmon in the big
net and trying to remove the hook from its mouth without harming the fish
or yourself.
Let me try to describe a typical Silver salmon strike: at some point in
the retrieve, the fly or lure stops with the subtle "take," but is it a
fish or grass? The reflex is to set the hook to be sure, and more often
than not, there will be a fish giving all you could want in the way of
thrills. Less frequent is the aggressive strike which leaves no doubt,
but both are strictly tactile. On an occasional day when the water is gin
clear and the wind calm, you can actually see the fish dart out of nowhere
and strike; a visual thrill to remember.
Rainbows strike like a roaring locomotive, and then streak away for a fun
that makes your reel sing and your heart race. A couple of 25 inch bows
took me into the backing with a light drag before I could slow them down
and finally bring them to the net for a quick photo and release.Some Silvers can be aerobatic gymnasts with twists, turns, and
gyrations. One such dynamo came flying over the gunwale and landed in the
fish box, so he became a "keeper." Another one came head-on into the side
of the boat, knocking the hook loose, and I performed an
auto-sportsman's release complete with headache.
The panoramic scenery surrounding the River is beautiful with stately
Evergreens and Alder, and avian royalty, including bald eagles,
cormorants, and seagulls. One afternoon, we saw a young moose swimming
across a channel with a determined dogpaddle. Back the lodge, Marge has a
friendly Red Fox that she feeds every day, and I was able to get some
close-up photos.
When I left the lodge at the end of my week, I had a fish box with 50
pounds of salmon fillets which will bring joy to those people I promised a
fish. It was also on my mind about next year's return to Ole Creek Lodge.
Perhaps some of you would like to join me for a fabulous
adventure on the unforgettable Kvichak River.
Ole Creek Lodge | | |
